Panerai, a brand known for its close ties to the military, has stirred up controversy with the release of its five new Navy SEALs collection watches. While the brand seeks to honor the bravery of elite troops, the exclusivity and limited availability of these timepieces have raised eyebrows.
The Panerai Navy SEALs collection, previously reserved for select markets, will now be available worldwide but only at boutiques, excluding many enthusiasts and potential customers. This move has sparked criticism for creating an aura of elitism and exclusivity around watches inspired by military heritage.
Leading the collection is the Panerai Luminor Marina Navy SEALs PAM01412, a 44mm dive watch featuring a brunito case finish that gives it a worn and weathered appearance. The unique hand-burnished stainless steel cases and the black-to-gray gradient dial with illuminating green accents epitomize the military aesthetic. Powered by the P9010 calibre, this timepiece offers a 3-day power reserve and is water-resistant up to 300 meters. However, with a price tag of $9,800 USD, and limited to just 862 pieces worldwide, the watch remains out of reach for many.
Another controversial inclusion in the collection is the relaunch of the Panerai Submersible BiTempo GMT PAM 01323. While the popularity of the Diver GMT is undeniable, Panerai’s decision to limit its availability to only 500 pieces has raised concerns. Moreover, the reserved allocation of 62 watches exclusively for active and retired Navy SEALs at a special price has drawn criticism for creating a sense of preferential treatment and exclusivity.
The watches in the Navy SEALs collection undoubtedly embody Panerai’s commitment to quality and craftsmanship. However, the brand’s handling of their release has overshadowed the timepieces themselves, sparking discomfort among watch enthusiasts and critics. Panerai must tread carefully to ensure that their future releases prioritize inclusivity and accessibility while still honoring the military heritage that has defined the brand.
