Chanel and Other Luxury Brands Reimagine Watches at Watches and Wonders

by Barbara Wilson

GENEVA, Switzerland (CNN) — Chanel’s latest creation, “Kiss Me,” is a timepiece that defies expectations. At first glance, it looks like a sleek, lacquered lipstick case, adorned with 20 baguette-cut yellow beryls set in gold. The golden chain from which it hangs adds to its luxurious appearance. However, with a simple click, the case opens to reveal a hidden watch dial inside.

This innovative design is part of Chanel’s capsule collection, unveiled at the Watches and Wonders trade fair in Geneva this April. The collection combines beauty and horology with pieces such as “Protect Me,” an amulet pendant inspired by the evil eye, and “Give Me Luck,” a talismanic necklace featuring rubellite cabochons and pink tourmalines. Both pendants, when twisted, reveal hidden watch faces.

Creating timepieces in unexpected forms marks a shift for Chanel, a brand known for its classic designs. But this move is part of a broader trend in the luxury watch industry, where watches are worn in unconventional ways. For example, last year, singer Taylor Swift wore a custom Lorraine Schwartz watch as a choker at the Grammy Awards.

“It’s a new way to wear time — one that celebrates uniqueness and individuality,” said Manon Hagie, sales director of watches at Sotheby’s, in an interview with CNN.

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Timepieces in Unlikely Forms

The Watches and Wonders fair also showcased other timepieces in surprising shapes. Van Cleef & Arpels presented a diamond-studded edition of the Cadenas watch, designed like a padlock with a shackle clasp. “When you look at it, it’s not immediately clear it’s a watch — and that’s what makes it modern and intriguing,” said Rainer Bernard, head of research and development at Van Cleef & Arpels. The design’s appeal comes from its dual identity as both a jewel and a timepiece.

Similarly, Cartier’s new Panthère jewelry watches feature the brand’s iconic leaping panther. The design appears as a striking bracelet at first, but a hidden watch dial is revealed when the piece is tilted. Cartier’s Panthère watches are available in various versions, including a pared-down gold design.

Cartier’s exploration of unconventional timepieces extends to men’s watches, with the revival of the Tank à Guichets. This minimalist design, first introduced in 1928, features no hands or traditional dial. Instead, two small apertures display the hour and minute in digits. The limited-edition model, set to launch in 2025, will be available in yellow gold, rose gold, and platinum.

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