What Is a Rolex Two-Tone Submariner?

by Barbara Wilson

The Rolex Two-Tone Submariner is one of the most distinguished watches in the world of luxury timepieces. Combining the ruggedness of Rolex’s iconic dive watch with the elegance of gold accents, the Two-Tone Submariner brings a unique twist to a timeless classic. With its combination of stainless steel and 18K yellow gold, it offers the perfect balance of luxury, durability, and style. In this article, we’ll delve into the features, history, design, and appeal of the Rolex Two-Tone Submariner, a watch that has become a symbol of sophistication for watch collectors and enthusiasts alike.

What Is a Rolex Two-Tone Submariner?

The Submariner’s Journey: From Utility to Icon

The Rolex Submariner was first introduced in 1953 as a professional diving watch. It quickly became a favorite among divers for its water-resistant case, rotatable bezel, and reliable movement, making it an essential tool for underwater professionals. Initially, the Submariner was designed with practicality in mind, focusing on features that could withstand the harsh conditions of the ocean depths.

The first Submariners were crafted entirely from stainless steel, with the black dial and bezel becoming the signature aesthetic. Over time, however, Rolex began to refine the design, adding new materials, features, and variations that appealed to a broader audience. As the years went by, the Submariner evolved from a functional tool to a luxury watch, representing not only precision and durability but also elegance and style.

The Birth of the Two-Tone Submariner

The Rolex Two-Tone Submariner was introduced as part of Rolex’s efforts to blend the practicality of their dive watches with the luxury and elegance of gold. This model, which combines stainless steel with 18K yellow gold, was initially released in the 1980s. Known as the “Rolesor”, a term coined by Rolex to describe the combination of gold and steel, the Two-Tone Submariner quickly garnered attention for its bold look and high-quality construction.

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The introduction of gold into the Submariner line was a statement of luxury, positioning the watch as not only a professional dive tool but also a versatile timepiece that could be worn in more formal settings. The use of gold added a layer of sophistication, while the stainless steel ensured that the watch remained durable enough to withstand the rigors of diving and everyday wear.

Design Features of the Rolex Two-Tone Submariner

The Case: Robust and Stylish

The case of the Rolex Two-Tone Submariner measures 40mm in diameter, making it the perfect size for a variety of wrist sizes. The case is made from a combination of 904L stainless steel and 18K yellow gold, which gives it both strength and luxury. The stainless steel portion of the case is highly resistant to corrosion and scratches, while the gold elements add a touch of warmth and elegance. The 18K yellow gold is used primarily for the bezel, crown, and middle links of the bracelet, giving the watch a distinctive look without sacrificing durability.

The Oyster case design, which is a hallmark of all Rolex watches, ensures that the watch is both waterproof and highly resistant to shocks. The solid caseback helps protect the movement from external influences, while the Triplock winding crown ensures superior water resistance, allowing the watch to withstand depths of up to 300 meters (1,000 feet). This makes the Rolex Two-Tone Submariner not only a luxurious timepiece but also a functional dive watch capable of enduring the harshest conditions.

The Bezel: Precision and Elegance

One of the key features of the Rolex Two-Tone Submariner is its rotatable bezel, which is used by divers to track elapsed time underwater. The bezel of the Two-Tone Submariner is made from Cerachrom, a high-tech ceramic material that is resistant to scratches, fading, and corrosion. This ensures that the bezel remains vibrant and legible, even after years of use in harsh environments.

The bezel insert is made from 18K yellow gold, which gives the watch a luxurious look while maintaining the functionality required for diving. The 60-minute graduation on the bezel allows divers to measure their dive times accurately, and the unidirectional rotation ensures that the bezel cannot be accidentally adjusted during a dive, a crucial safety feature. The combination of gold and ceramic in the bezel creates a striking contrast, making the watch both functional and visually stunning.

The Dial: Classic and Elegant

The dial of the Rolex Two-Tone Submariner is simple yet striking, featuring white gold hour markers and hands for enhanced legibility. The dial is available in black or blue, both of which offer a classic look that complements the gold and stainless steel case. The black dial is the most common, providing a bold contrast with the gold accents, while the blue dial offers a more understated and refined appearance. Both dial colors are equally functional, offering excellent contrast against the gold bezel and making the watch easy to read in any lighting conditions.

The date window, located at the 3 o’clock position, is magnified by Rolex’s signature Cyclops lens, which makes it easier to read the date at a glance. The use of Chromalight luminescence on the hour markers and hands ensures that the watch remains readable in low light, such as underwater or in dark environments.

The Bracelet: Comfort and Durability

The bracelet of the Rolex Two-Tone Submariner is made from 904L stainless steel with 18K yellow gold accents. The bracelet features Oystersteel links for durability and comfort, along with solid center links that provide a more robust construction. The integration of gold in the bracelet, particularly in the middle links, gives the watch an added touch of luxury, making it stand out from other dive watches in the market.

The bracelet is equipped with Rolex’s Oysterlock clasp, which prevents accidental opening, and the Easylink extension system, which allows for small adjustments to the bracelet’s length for added comfort. This system is particularly useful in warmer climates or when the wrist expands and contracts due to temperature changes. The result is a bracelet that is both comfortable to wear and secure, whether you are diving or wearing the watch casually.

The Movement: Precision and Performance

The Caliber 3135: Rolex’s Powerhouse Movement

The Rolex Two-Tone Submariner is powered by the Caliber 3135 movement, a self-winding mechanical movement that is known for its precision, reliability, and robustness. The Caliber 3135 is one of Rolex’s most widely used movements, powering several models in the Submariner and Datejust lines. It has a power reserve of 48 hours, meaning it can run for two full days without needing to be wound.

The Caliber 3135 is chronometer-certified by the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC), ensuring that it meets Rolex’s stringent standards for accuracy. The movement features a Parachrom hairspring, which is highly resistant to magnetic fields and temperature fluctuations, ensuring that the watch continues to perform accurately, even in extreme conditions.

The date function is an important part of the movement, and it is displayed in a date window at the 3 o’clock position. The date is magnified by Rolex’s signature Cyclops lens, making it easier to read at a glance.

Why the Rolex Two-Tone Submariner is a Collector’s Dream

Luxury Meets Durability

The Rolex Two-Tone Submariner is a perfect blend of luxury and durability. The combination of stainless steel and 18K yellow gold makes the watch not only beautiful but also capable of withstanding the rigors of everyday wear. Whether you’re diving, attending a formal event, or simply going about your day-to-day activities, the Two-Tone Submariner is versatile enough to suit any occasion.

Rolex’s commitment to quality and craftsmanship is evident in every aspect of the watch, from the Oyster case to the Cerachrom bezel. The use of premium materials ensures that the watch will remain both functional and visually stunning for years to come.

Investment Value

In addition to its aesthetic appeal, the Rolex Two-Tone Submariner holds significant investment value. Rolex watches are known for their ability to retain and appreciate in value over time, and the Two-Tone Submariner is no exception. Limited production models, particularly those with specific dial or bezel configurations, have seen their prices increase in recent years. As Rolex continues to produce high-quality, durable, and stylish watches, the Two-Tone Submariner remains a sought-after model for collectors and investors alike.

Conclusion

The Rolex Two-Tone Submariner is a masterpiece of design and engineering, combining the durability and functionality of the Submariner with the elegance and luxury of gold accents. Whether worn as a professional dive watch or a luxury timepiece for everyday use, the Two-Tone Submariner offers the best of both worlds. Its blend of stainless steel and 18K yellow gold makes it a versatile and timeless piece that will continue to captivate watch lovers for generations to come.

With its robust design, precision movement, and distinctive aesthetics, the Rolex Two-Tone Submariner has firmly established itself as a classic in the world of luxury watches. Whether you’re a seasoned collector or someone looking to invest in your first Rolex, the Two-Tone Submariner is a watch that will never go out of style.

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