Let me start by saying, I’ve never been one to worship at the “Green ‘n’ Gold” Rolex altar. When it comes to the subject of Rolex, its timepieces are polarizing, and I’m neither a fanboy nor a hater. I’m as neutral as the country from which the brand hails.
I’ve never been fond of the absurd secondary market premiums, snooty authorized dealers, and multi-generational waiting lists that have come to define the Rolex experience. I’ve even written a satirical piece about a future where Rolex boutiques offer to cryogenically freeze clients while they wait for that stainless steel Daytona.
On the flip side, I also dislike the YouTube pundits who make a living posting videos proclaiming that their latest Kickstarter micro-brand watch is “Better than a ROLEX!” The absurdity of it all is hard to ignore.
So why did I buy a Rolex? Let me explain…
The Air-King 116900: A Strange but Brilliant Watch
The Rolex Air-King Ref. 116900 has always been my favorite stainless steel 40mm Rolex. There, I said it! What kind of watch is it? A sports watch? A tool watch? Nobody seems to agree.
With its dashboard-inspired dial featuring Arabic numerals counting down from 5 to 55 (in an eye-catching speedometer font), along with large white gold markers at 3, 6, and 9 o’clock, it’s a design that stands out. And let’s not forget the only instance of the Rolex coronet and logo appearing in bright yellow and green.
But my favorite detail is the stylized “Air-King” logo — it’s a subtle touch that reminds me more of a 1950s kitchen appliance than a luxury Swiss watch, and I love it.
Despite its eclectic design, the Air-King’s dial is remarkably legible, even for someone with aging eyes like mine. It’s one of the few watches in my collection that doesn’t require reading glasses to check the time.
This watch is bold, brash, and unapologetic. It doesn’t try to fit in — it owns its eccentricities. The Air-King is the “Red-Headed Stepchild” of Rolex’s stainless steel offerings, and I find myself drawn to it for exactly that reason. It’s a watch that dares you to love it, and I do.
The Case: Sensuous and Sculptural
Let’s talk about the case. Unlike the blocky, “Super Case” of the more popular Rolex models like the Submariner or GMT, the Air-King’s case is fluid and sensuous. Its curves are a tactile pleasure to the touch, and the extra thickness needed for the soft iron cage (to protect the movement from magnetic fields) gives it a solid presence on the wrist without succumbing to the dreaded “Cheeseburger Effect” that many similarly hefty watches fall victim to.
The Oyster bracelet, with its satin-like brushing, is Rolex’s best in class at this price point. It also features Rolex’s “Easy Link” adjustment, making it incredibly comfortable to wear. At times, I even forget I’m wearing it.
Technical Excellence: Parachrom Bleu
Now, let’s talk about what makes this watch technically impressive. While some claim Rolex isn’t a leader in technical innovation, I disagree. Rolex has been one of the most innovative watchmakers of the last century.
Take the Caliber 3131 movement, for example. In terms of accuracy, shock resistance, anti-magnetism, and power reserve, it holds its own against any of its competitors.
Speaking of magnetism, as someone who spends a lot of time near laptops, the Air-King’s Parachrom Bleu hairspring is a game-changer. Made from a new patented alloy, it’s resistant to magnetic fields, temperature fluctuations, and wear. It’s also ten times more accurate than a traditional hairspring. Rolex isn’t just making watches; they’re pushing the boundaries of materials science.
Price and Purchase: The “Bloodhound” is Now a Steal
Rumors of the Air-King’s discontinuation started circulating, and collectors and flippers scrambled to grab one at retail prices. Prices reached over $14,000 at the peak. But after Rolex announced that a new version of the Air-King would be released in 2022, the prices began to come down. This made it the perfect time for me to finally pull the trigger.
I went with The 1916 Company, where I was able to secure a like-new 2019 Air-King with box, papers, and all the original accessories, including the coveted plastic bezel guard. The price was fair, and they even offered a 2-year warranty and free overnight delivery.
Conclusion: The Air-King Bloodhound as a Daily Wearer
As much as the “experts” claim that the Air-King Ref. 116900 is a future classic, I don’t care about that. For me, it’s about the present. The Air-King has become my go-to, daily wearer — it even has the bezel swirl and clasp scuff to prove it.
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