Cartier’s Tank wristwatch, with its rectangular design, broke the traditional mold of its era and still appears exceptionally unique today. Notably, its square or rectangular case seamlessly integrates with angular vertical lugs, representing a stylistic breakthrough and highlighting Cartier’s unique watchmaking craftsmanship. It seems like an eternal masterpiece that transcends time and is considered a classic in different eras. Besides being simply named “Tank”, when closely observing the watch’s outline, one can be reminded of the top-view of a tank. It is said that Louis Cartier was inspired by the overhead view of a Renault tank to design this wristwatch. Interestingly, the Tank wristwatch was introduced in 1917, during World War I, and its prototype was even presented to John Joseph Pershing, the commander of the American Expeditionary Forces in Europe.
The design of this wristwatch, with its well-arranged structure and modern fashionable arcs, ingeniously blends seemingly contradictory geometric shapes. Once launched, it immediately touched the aesthetic senses of the masters of that time, generating an aesthetic resonance. It became a favorite among avant-garde art and cultural figures, allowing the distinct lines of the wristwatch to echo their personal styles. It was sought after by Indian royals and celebrities from various countries. Notable followers include French actress Catherine Deneuve, British legendary rock singer Elton John, and Princess Diana. The pop art master Andy Warhol even said, “I wear the Tank wristwatch not to tell the time. In fact, I have never wound it.”
The Tank Louis Cartier mini version has a diameter of 24×16.5mm. It features a new proportioned yellow gold case with a shape adjustment, but adheres to the DNA of the Tank Louis Cartier, retaining the satin-finished horizontal stripes and soft angles.
The creative characteristics of the Tank wristwatch are highly praised, and the watch has thus evolved through new designs while remaining true to its unique style. During the continuous evolution, it showcases Cartier’s unrivaled pursuit of excellence in watchmaking art. In 1921, the case was elongated, and the vertical lugs became more slender and delicate, transforming into the Tank LC wristwatch. Due to its softer and rounder edges, it was initially named the “rounded-edge” Tank. In the late 1970s, the then-distinctive Tank Must wristwatch adopted a monochrome dial. In 1988, the Tank Américaine wristwatch was introduced, with its elongated and slightly arched case exuding elegance, aligning with the vibrant spirit of the era. The Tank Française wristwatch, born in 1996, pioneered the integration of the metal bracelet with the case.
Every year, Cartier’s Privé collection selects a piece from the brand’s history for reinterpretation. In 2024, it is the turn of the distinctive Tortue series, inspired by turtles. This year’s highlight of the CARTIER Privé collection is the Tortue single-pusher chronograph. This is the third time after the 1920s and 1990s that Cartier has integrated the single-pusher chronograph function into the Tortue wristwatch. Some elements have crossed time and space and reappeared on the modern piece. The apple-shaped blue steel hands, the hollowed-out circle at the end of the second hand, and the triangular contours at the four corners of the circular dial once again evoke our memories of the early works of Tortue. The new Tortue single-pusher chronograph adopts a platinum case and is adorned with a cabochon ruby on the crown, complementing the burgundy alligator leather strap to create an elegant and stable temperament. On the dial, three-dimensional Roman numeral hour markers are inlaid inside the minute scale. The two subdials perform their respective functions of indicating time and chronograph, and the dial in the turtle-shaped case is filled with numerous circles, demonstrating a consummate application of geometric shapes. The wristwatch is equipped with the Cartier 1928 MC automatic movement. Although this movement has a chronograph function, its thickness is only 4.3mm, belonging to a thin and complex movement. The column wheel can be seen through the transparent case back, along with the Geneva waves on the baseplate, chamfered and polished movement components, and ring grain decorations, exuding the exquisite craftsmanship of high-end watchmaking.
The Tank Louis Cartier diamond-set version, with 151 diamonds in a “clou” setting to enhance the jewelry aspect of the watch and enhance the brilliance of the diamonds on the black lacquer dial, creating a vintage feel, is set to be launched in November 2024.
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