Patek Philippe’s Cubitus 5822P has stirred up strong reactions since its unveiling. Released as part of the brand’s first new line in 25 years, the Cubitus collection has sparked both confusion and critique in the watch community. At the center of the controversy is the design of the 5822P, particularly its dial, which many have found visually unsettling.
While the craftsmanship of the Cubitus, powered by the caliber 240 PS CI J LU, is undeniably impressive—true to Patek’s standards—the design itself feels misaligned with traditional aesthetics. The dial features asymmetric sub-dials and hour markers that appear jarring rather than harmonious. This disruption of typical watch design norms has led some, like renowned watch designer Matt Smith-Johnson, to describe the layout as “unbalanced.”
The Cubitus’ sub-dials, which resemble those of the Nautilus, seem to disrupt the balance of the dial. Additionally, the hour markers are inconsistently cropped, particularly between 4 and 7 o’clock, creating a disjointed visual flow. Critics argue that the movement, based on the caliber 240 used in the Nautilus, hasn’t been optimized for the Cubitus’ design, leading to these visual discrepancies.
In contrast to the Cubitus, other designs like the A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1, which adheres to the golden ratio, are often lauded for their aesthetic appeal. The Lange 1’s dial, with its pleasing asymmetry and thoughtful arrangement, is widely regarded as a modern design masterpiece. By comparison, the Cubitus’ lack of proportional harmony seems to clash with established design principles, leaving many collectors and enthusiasts puzzled.
Despite its technical prowess, the Cubitus 5822P has faced near-universal criticism for its lack of visual harmony. Some have suggested that the watch may appeal to younger buyers with more flexible tastes. However, for many, the Cubitus raises deeper questions about beauty in design: Is there a universally appealing aesthetic, or is beauty entirely subjective? The Cubitus, with its defiance of traditional design rules, has certainly made its mark—but whether it’s a timeless piece or simply a fleeting experiment remains to be seen.
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