New York—Two Rolex watches with fascinating histories—having journeyed from the North Pole to the depths of the Titanic wreck site—will be offered at auction by Sotheby’s this December. These watches, integral to the career of renowned underwater cinematographer Alfred “Al” Giddings, represent a unique intersection of exploration, film, and horology.
The first is a steel Rolex Submariner Ref. 1680, famously worn by Giddings during numerous dives to the wreckage of the R.M.S. Titanic. The second is a gold version of the same model, which Giddings lent to actor Bill Paxton for his portrayal of Brock Lovett in James Cameron’s 1997 blockbuster Titanic.
Giddings, an Emmy Award-winning cinematographer, is perhaps best known for his role as co-producer and director of underwater photography for Cameron’s Oscar-winning film. Giddings’s impressive career as a diver and filmmaker spans over five decades, including pioneering deep-sea explorations and developing groundbreaking film techniques. He was the first person to dive using mixed gases to the Andrea Doria wreck in 1969 and to explore the Japanese I-169 submarine in 1973, among other significant underwater achievements.
The Submariner Ref. 1680 that Giddings wore during his Titanic expeditions is estimated to fetch between $20,000 and $40,000 at auction. The model, a “Red Sub” with distinctive red text on its dial, was produced only in the early years of the 1680 series, adding to its rarity and appeal. Giddings himself has described the Rolex as the “best” diving watch, noting its flawless performance in a variety of extreme environments—from the Titanic wreck site to the frigid waters of the North Pole.
Giddings’s gold Rolex Submariner Ref. 1680/8, worn by Paxton in Titanic, carries a pre-sale estimate of $30,000 to $60,000. The timepiece, known for its “nipple dial,” was sparingly worn by Giddings but accompanied him on dives to historic shipwrecks. Giddings recalls receiving the watch as a gift from Rolex after he sent a collection of underwater photos featuring marine biologist Dr. Sylvia Earle, a longtime collaborator of his, to the watchmaker as a favor to a friend.
“I was in shock when the gold Rolex arrived. At the time, it was worth around $10,000,” Giddings said. The watch would later go on to feature prominently in the film’s iconic underwater scenes.
Both Rolexes will be offered at Sotheby’s Important Watches sale on December 6 in New York. The auction house describes the steel model as possessing “distinguished dive and exploration history,” marking it as an exceptional example of Rolex’s commitment to the exploration world. Giddings’s steel Submariner has amassed tens of thousands of hours underwater, making it arguably the maritime counterpart to watches worn on space missions.
Geoff Hess, Sotheby’s Global Head of Watches, reflected on the significance of the two timepieces: “For 50 years, these watches have journeyed with him across the globe, from the icy realms of the North Pole to the profound depths of the ocean. No other timepieces boast such extensive underwater exposure, especially the steel model, which has seen far more than its fair share of dives.”
The Rolexes will be available for public viewing at Sotheby’s York Avenue galleries on December 5, offering collectors and enthusiasts a rare opportunity to witness these legendary timepieces before they go under the hammer.
Both watches are not only highly coveted for their craftsmanship but also for the storied history they represent—serving as a tangible connection to Giddings’s historic explorations, his role in Titanic’s cinematic legacy, and the legendary shipwreck itself.
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