While rare watches can command significant premiums, true value is found where rarity meets desirability. Now, let’s explore this week’s standout picks:
1976 Rolex Oyster Perpetual Ref. 1002 with Breguet Numeral Dial
Typically, the Rolex Oyster Perpetual Ref. 1002 is not considered rare. However, this specific version with Breguet numerals is an exception. Only three known examples of this dial exist. My first encounter with one during a Geneva auction in May was astonishing. The transformation of a standard OP into a unique piece with large printed Breguet numerals elevates its status.
These watches have recently appeared on the market, and their origins are being studied. All three known examples feature a Beyeler-signed dial, hinting at a small, contemporaneous batch. The 1976 model is the earliest known, with others dating a few years later.
The Breguet numerals not only enhance the watch’s rarity but also its overall aesthetic appeal. The design’s charm is reminiscent of my favorite Pateks with Breguet numerals, but the distinctiveness of this OP lies in its divergence from traditional Rolex design.
Offered by Wes at Collectors Corner NY, this rare Rolex is listed at $29,900. For more details, click here.
1960s Cartier London Decagon
The Cartier London Decagon, like the Rolex, is one of a very limited number. I discovered this particular model while browsing a small auction house in Oakland. Initially skeptical of its authenticity, I confirmed its legitimacy with Clars Auctions.
Cartier’s London-made watches from this era are highly sought after, often showcasing the same artisanal craftsmanship found in the brand’s early 1910s pieces, but with a 1960s twist. The Decagon is a unique shape that stands out among other London-made Cartier watches.
The last Decagon to hit the auction block fetched €55,900 at Monaco Legends Group in 2021. Despite its somewhat unconventional appearance, described by Malaika Crawford as “ugly beautiful,” the Decagon remains a highly intriguing piece.
At Clars Auctions, this Cartier London Decagon (lot 5115) is estimated between $5,000 and $7,000.
1950s Universal Genève Polarouter Ref. 20217-3
The Universal Genève Polerouter is a cornerstone of vintage watch collections. Born from a project with SAS to commemorate the airline’s polar flight, the Polarouter model is noteworthy for its limited production run and historical significance. Around 300 Polarouters were made, with half featuring an SAS logo.
The example featured here is among the approximately 170 Polarouters produced for commercial use. While I have been searching for a black-dial version for years, this silver-dial model’s excellent condition and appealing patina make it a standout.
Available for $4,686 from Waecce Watches in Beverley, UK, this Polarouter is a rare find. Click here for more details.
1950s Gubelin Dress Watch with Baguette Diamond Cardinal Indices
Gubelin, known for its association with Patek Philippe, also produced high-quality white-label watches. This 1950s Gubelin dress watch, adorned with baguette-diamond cardinal indices, exemplifies the brand’s craftsmanship. Although not confirmed to be produced by Audemars Piguet, the watch reflects high-quality production typical of Gubelin’s finest offerings.
A Gubelin watch with such distinctive features is a rarity, particularly in white gold. Currently listed on eBay with bidding ending on September 15 at 9:30 PM ET, the watch’s bid was at $810 at the time of publication.
1940s Universal Genève Ref. 20105
Finally, we have a unique Universal Genève model from the 1940s, housed in a François Borgel case—a combination I have rarely encountered. This 30mm watch is somewhat mysterious, with limited examples of this reference available for comparison. It remains an intriguing piece for collectors.
This Universal Genève is listed for auction on eBay, ending September 15 at 10:06 PM ET, with a current bid of $42.
These exceptional timepieces not only highlight the allure of rare watches but also the enduring appeal of unique and historically significant designs.
