A highly anticipated auction featuring a 31-piece private collection of rare timepieces, predominantly Patek Philippe models, is set to take place this November at Sotheby’s in Geneva. With an estimated value ranging between $10 million and $22 million, the collection showcases some of the most sought-after and iconic watches from the 1940s and 1950s, including grail references 1518 and 2499. A highlight of the sale includes three unique Patek Philippe pieces, with collectors eager to secure these rare treasures. In addition to Patek Philippe, the collection features complications from Vacheron Constantin and A. Lange & Söhne, along with a well-preserved Universal Genève/Hermès Compax Chronograph from 1937. Preview events will be held in New York from September 6-9, with the main sale taking place in Geneva on November 10.
The collector’s impeccable taste is reflected in the predominance of yellow gold watches, with a few pink gold pieces and only five in white metal—four platinum and one white gold. The watches span more than a century of horological history, including some models that haven’t been seen on the public market for over 40 years. “My passion for collecting began in the 1980s when I started contemplating time from a philosophical standpoint,” the anonymous collector shared. “This fascination led me to the intricate art of watchmaking, where my love for mechanical complexity merged with my appreciation for exquisite design. These watches, which I view as mechanical jewels, have been a part of my personal journey, and each one carries a unique story.”
A Collection Primed for High Bids
Sotheby’s expects the auction to reach or even surpass its high estimate due to recent changes in the auction house’s buyer’s premium structure. As of this summer, Sotheby’s has reduced its commission rates by 26%, making it the lowest among major auction houses. The revised structure, which excludes cars, real estate, wine, and spirits, is expected to boost bidding enthusiasm. A recent survey of Sotheby’s clients revealed that over 90% would be inclined to bid higher due to the lower fees. While this collection was consigned before the new fee structure was implemented, the reduction is anticipated to positively impact final hammer prices. A similar sale in Hong Kong in 2022—The Nevadian Collection—garnered $20.6 million, exceeding its estimate by a significant margin.
Notable Lots to Watch
Lot 16: Patek Philippe First Series Reference 2499 in Pink Gold
Among the most coveted items in the collection is a Patek Philippe First Series Reference 2499, estimated at $2.95 million to $5.9 million. Only 349 of this reference were produced, with just 55 in the first series and only six in pink gold. This particular watch is the sole known example with a case made by Wenger, making it unique among its peers. The timepiece features the hallmark rectangular pushers and perpetual calendar chronograph complications, making it one of Patek Philippe’s most legendary models.
Lot 20: Patek Philippe Reference 1518 in Pink Gold
Lot 20 is another headliner: a Patek Philippe Reference 1518, the world’s first perpetual calendar chronograph wristwatch, made in 1948. This pink gold version is one of only 58 ever made. With an estimated price range of $1.77 million to $3.54 million, this vintage masterpiece represents one of the cornerstones of Patek Philippe’s storied history in high horology.
Lot 18: Patek Philippe Reference 1563
Unique in its own right, Lot 18, the Patek Philippe Reference 1563, is a yellow gold split-seconds chronograph made in 1947. This reference, one of only three known examples, features a luminous Breguet numeral dial—a rare deviation from its usual design. Estimated between $1.18 million and $3.54 million, this watch boasts an additional layer of historical intrigue with a caseback engraved “L. Estée” and “S.G.H.”
Lot 22: Patek Philippe Reference 2499 in Yellow Gold with Black Enamel Dial
Another standout is Lot 22, a third-series Patek Philippe Reference 2499, notable for its striking black lacquer dial with gold Breguet numerals. This rare configuration, coupled with the watch’s larger 37.5 mm size, makes it an extraordinary piece. Estimated at $1.18 million to $3.54 million, this watch exemplifies the enduring appeal of vintage Patek Philippe chronographs.
Lot 17: Patek Philippe Reference 1436 Split-Second Chronograph
Lot 17, a Reference 1436 yellow gold split-second chronograph, estimated between $472,000 and $944,000, is also likely to attract attention. This timepiece is believed to be one of the earliest split-second chronographs ever produced in series by Patek Philippe. Its dial, adorned with enamelled Breguet numerals and oversized subdials, sets it apart from others in this rare reference.
Lot 4: A. Lange & Söhne Tourbillon ‘Pour le Mérite’ in Platinum
While the auction is dominated by Patek Philippe, other brands will also shine. One example is Lot 4, an A. Lange & Söhne Tourbillon ‘Pour le Mérite’ in platinum, a limited edition of 50 pieces. Made in 1996, this masterpiece combines a tourbillon with a fusée-and-chain transmission, enhancing precision. It is expected to sell for between $300,000 and $525,000, a testament to the German watchmaker’s renaissance in the 1990s.
Sotheby’s upcoming auction promises to be a milestone event for collectors of rare timepieces, with vintage Patek Philippe models taking center stage. Given the rarity, history, and beauty of the watches up for sale, the auction is expected to attract strong global interest, potentially setting new records for vintage horological masterpieces.
