Cartier is widely recognized as a luxury jewelry brand, but its contributions to watchmaking are equally significant. Despite being more renowned for its jewelry, Cartier’s timepieces, such as the Cartier Santos, have earned their place in the luxury watch arena. In fact, Cartier ranks second in total estimated revenue according to Morgan Stanley, following only Rolex.
Cartier Santos: A Timeless Icon
Among Cartier’s illustrious collection, the Santos stands out. It holds the distinction of being the first wristwatch designed for men, cementing its place as a classic in Cartier’s lineup. In recent years, the Santos has seen a resurgence in interest, reflecting its enduring appeal. As someone who has come to appreciate the Santos more deeply, I aim to share my insights and hopefully spark a similar appreciation in you.
In this review, we’ll delve into the Santos de Cartier, exploring its rich history, modern updates, and whether it stands up to the competition from Rolex and Omega.
A Brief History
The Cartier Santos boasts a storied past that adds depth to its timeless design. The story begins in 1904 with Louis Cartier, who was managing Cartier’s Paris branch. His close friend, Brazilian aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont, was using a pocket watch during his flights, which proved cumbersome. Santos-Dumont requested Cartier to create a wristwatch for him, leading to the birth of the Santos.
Designed with a square bezel, white dial, and Roman numerals, the Santos became a revolutionary pilot’s watch. Santos-Dumont, who became widely known in Europe for his aviation feats, wore the watch during his flights, generating media attention and establishing the Santos as a notable timepiece.
The watch was officially released to the public five years later, in collaboration with Edmond Jaeger, and featured innovations such as a folding clasp. Despite the disruptions caused by World War I, the Santos remained relevant and continued to evolve.
The Evolution and Modernization
The 1970s brought significant changes to the Santos. Cartier recognized the trend towards luxury stainless steel sports watches and updated the Santos with a new bracelet design and a more integrated appearance. The introduction of the Santos de Cartier marked a shift, blending traditional elegance with contemporary style.
In 2018, Cartier launched a new collection, replacing the Santos 100 with an updated design. This collection includes various sizes, materials, and dials, reflecting Cartier’s ability to modernize while preserving the Santos’ iconic elements.
Case Design
The Cartier Santos case is available in medium, large, and extra-large sizes, with dimensions of 35.1mm x 41.9mm for the medium and 39.8mm x 47.5mm for the large. The thin profile, with a thickness of 8.83mm for the medium and 9.08mm for the large, contributes to its comfortable wear.
One notable feature is the 100m water resistance, aligning the Santos with other sports watches like the Rolex Datejust. The case has been refined with added curvature and redesigned lugs and crown guards, enhancing its aesthetic and comfort. The polished bezel, while visually appealing, can attract scratches, although some may view this as a sign of character.
Bracelet
The Santos bracelet, introduced in the 1970s, has become a defining feature of the watch. The bracelet’s straight links, slightly domed for comfort, and polished screws add to its distinctive design. Cartier’s SmartLink and QuickSwitch systems, allowing tool-free adjustment and strap changes, further enhance the bracelet’s user-friendliness.
Dial
The Santos dial maintains its classic look with a white background and black Roman numerals. Subtle details, such as the raised indices and the Cartier stamp, contribute to its elegance. The minute hand’s extension beyond the minute track, while not the most practical, adds visual balance.
Wearing Experience
The Cartier Santos is remarkably comfortable, with a bracelet that feels as supple as a leather strap. Its thin case and curved design ensure a seamless fit on the wrist, and the overall experience is one of understated luxury and heritage.
Areas for Improvement
While the Cartier Santos excels in many areas, there is room for improvement. The movement, the 1847 MC caliber, is reliable but lacks the advanced features found in some competitors. Additionally, the polished bezel, though attractive, is prone to scratches. Offering alternatives such as brushed finishes could enhance the watch’s durability and appeal.
Why Choose the Santos Over Rolex or Omega?
The Cartier Santos is more than just a watch; it’s a piece of history and a symbol of innovation. Its heritage, design, and versatility make it a worthy contender against other luxury sports watches. The Santos stands out for its unique blend of elegance and ruggedness, offering a distinctive alternative to more traditional options from Rolex and Omega.
In conclusion, if you’re considering a luxury sports watch, the Cartier Santos deserves your attention. Its rich history, modern updates, and exceptional comfort make it a compelling choice, whether you’re a seasoned collector or new to the world of luxury timepieces.
