The Patek Philippe Calatrava stands as a paragon of timeless elegance in the world of haute horology. With its classic round case, refined lines, and iconic clous de Paris bezel, the Calatrava embodies the sophisticated craftsmanship that Patek Philippe has become renowned for. The latest model revives the famous guilloché finish, a hallmark of the Calatrava’s enduring appeal, and introduces a contemporary hand-wound caliber with an impressive power reserve.
The Stern family’s acquisition of Patek Philippe in 1932 marked a pivotal moment in the company’s history. While Patek Philippe was primarily known for its pocket watches at the time, the Sterns foresaw the potential of wristwatches and sought to translate the company’s pocket watch expertise into this new realm. The result was the Reference 96, introduced in the same year, which became the first model to bear a reference number.
Design Evolution
The minimalist Bauhaus principle, emphasizing that form follows function, guided the design of Reference 96. Over the years, it has been interpreted in numerous versions, each maintaining its core identity. Variations included flat or slightly rounded bezels, some polished, set with jewels, or guillochéd. The watch has seen extra-slim iterations and versions with hinged backs, and dials featuring just the essentials—hours and minutes, sometimes with a seconds hand or date display.
The new Reference 6119 pays homage to two significant predecessors: the Reference 3919 from 1985, and its 2006 reinterpretation as Reference 5119. The Reference 5119 saw an increase in case size from 33.5 mm to 36 mm, and now, the Reference 6119 features a contemporary 39 mm case diameter. President Thierry Stern noted that they experimented with a 40 mm case but found it too large, underscoring how even a single millimeter can significantly affect the watch’s presence.
Refined Details
The design of Reference 6119 incorporates nuances from past models. The applied, obelisk-like hour markers, including the double marker at 12 o’clock, reference the original Calatrava design and its early variants. The triple-faceted dauphine hands and the curved lugs, which have been a recurring design element, further connect this model to its historical roots. The white-gold Calatrava 6119G-001 is complemented by a black alligator leather strap with a white-gold pin buckle, a design choice that harks back to former president Henri Stern’s American market preferences.
The watch’s dial is a contemporary anthracite with a vertical satin finish. The applied indexes and dauphine hands, also crafted from white gold, offer excellent contrast and legibility while playing with light. Noteworthy is the new railway minute scale, which adds a refined touch to the edge of the dial, and the small seconds hand that traverses a circular subdial divided into four sections. This subdial, marked with finely drawn lines in 5-second increments, is covered by a box-shaped sapphire crystal.
Clous de Paris Bezel
The clous de Paris bezel, known for its pyramid-shaped embossing, is a key feature of this model. This intricate guilloché technique, creating a “nail of Paris” pattern, involves crafting tiny pyramids from solid metal using a motorized milling tool. The result is a sophisticated light play that adds depth to the bezel. Patek Philippe’s use of this technique on the Calatrava’s bezel remains one of the most celebrated examples of clous de Paris craftsmanship.
Movement and Mechanics
The Calatrava was originally equipped with the hand-wound Caliber 215 PS. For the Reference 6119, Patek Philippe introduced the new Caliber 30-255 PS. This movement features a larger diameter (31 mm compared to the 21.9 mm of its predecessor) but maintains a slim height of 2.55 mm. The movement’s innovative design includes parallel-connected barrels, which combine their power for increased torque and slim construction. The Caliber 30-255 PS also boasts a power reserve of 65 hours, a stop-seconds function, and an exceptionally high moment of inertia, ensuring stability and precision.
Tradition and Modernity
The Calatrava’s legacy dates back to 1932, and while the name has been officially used since 1982, the watch’s history stretches even further to the registration of the Calatrava cross as a trademark in 1887. The design ethos of the Calatrava has evolved, but its core principles of elegance and functionality remain unchanged.
Specifications
- Manufacturer: Patek Philippe SA, Geneva, Switzerland
- Reference Number: 6119G-001
- Functions: Hours, minutes, small seconds
- Movement: Caliber 30-255 PS, manually wound, 28,800 vph, 27 jewels, Spiromax hairspring, Gyromax balance, Incabloc shock protection, 65-hour power reserve
- Case: 18k white gold, box-shaped sapphire crystal above dial, sapphire crystal in back, water-resistant to 30 m
- Strap and Clasp: Black leather alligator strap with white-gold pin buckle
- Dimensions: Diameter = 39.0 mm, height = 8.08 mm, lug width = 21.0 mm
- Variations: Rose gold (Ref. 6119R-001, $30,750)
- Price: $30,750
The Patek Philippe Calatrava continues to stand as a timeless symbol of elegance and technical prowess, embodying the brand’s commitment to both tradition and innovation.
