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Behind the Scenes: Patek Philippe Golden Ellipse

by Barbara Wilson

Patek Philippe’s Golden Ellipse, originally launched in 1968, has been reimagined with a new bracelet design that showcases the brand’s commitment to craftsmanship and innovation. While the buzz at Watches and Wonders in April centered on the new Nautilus, Patek Philippe quietly introduced a product 15 years in the making—the intricate new chain bracelet of the Golden Ellipse.

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This bracelet, composed of 363 parts, including over 300 individually hand-polished 18-karat rose gold links, represents a significant leap in watch bracelet design. Unlike traditional chain bracelets from the 1960s and 1970s, which were often inflexible and prone to breakage, Patek Philippe’s new design offers both elegance and practicality. The links move independently, providing superior flexibility and comfort, while a newly innovated clasp with three adjustment notches ensures a perfect fit without the need for resizing by a jeweler.

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The Golden Ellipse, with its unique not-quite-rectangular, not-quite-circular case and minimalist dial, has always stood out in the world of dress watches. Despite being overshadowed by the Nautilus and the Aquanaut, the Golden Ellipse has maintained a presence in Patek’s collection for over five decades.

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The latest release, Reference 5738/1R-001, features a sunburst ebony black dial with rose gold baton-style hour markers and slim hands, complementing the new bracelet and the ultra-thin 240 caliber movement. This movement, just 2.53mm thick, powers the watch with a 48-hour reserve, maintaining Patek Philippe’s legacy of elegant, reliable timepieces.

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As mid-century dress watches regain popularity, the Golden Ellipse’s new chain bracelet could be a game-changer, especially for younger customers who appreciate vintage designs but were previously deterred by sizing issues. The reimagined bracelet not only brings a classic design back into vogue but also solidifies the Golden Ellipse’s place in the pantheon of timeless dress watches.

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