Patek Philippe’s Ref. 5236P, first introduced in 2021, evokes a sense of vintage elegance inspired by the linear perpetual calendar pocket watches from the 1950s and 1960s. This model pays homage to historical references such as the Ref. 725/4, known for its American digital perpetual calendar, and the Ref. 699, which featured a minute repeater. Its standout feature is the horizontal calendar display, a design innovation that sets it apart from traditional multi-sub-dial configurations. The “American” reference indicates the format—month, date, and day—though the 5236P omits this designation and is driven by a sophisticated new calendar mechanism, the 31-260 PS QL.
Initially unveiled with a blue dial, this year, Patek Philippe has introduced a new version of the 5236P featuring a captivating salmon dial, which has quickly become a favorite among enthusiasts. We had the opportunity to experience this timepiece firsthand, and it was a challenge to part with it, given its allure and functionality.
While the original pocket-sized models measured 46mm in diameter, the contemporary Ref. 5236P is housed in a 41.3mm case with a thickness of 11.07mm. This makes it one of the more substantial perpetual calendars in Patek Philippe’s collection, particularly when compared to the 39mm x 9.71mm Ref. 5327G or the 40mm x 11.13mm Ref. 5320G. The broad mid-case enhances its presence, yet the elegantly inclined lugs and sloping bezel maintain a refined aesthetic.
The 5236P features a manually operated crown for winding and time-setting, avoiding the trend of integrated pushers in favor of traditional multi-functional crowns and push-pieces. The case is equipped with four discreet corrector pushers: at 2 o’clock for adjusting the month and year, at 10 o’clock for the date, and two additional buttons below for the day of the week and moon phase. Although the settings may be less intuitive, the overall case design is well-balanced, and despite its size, the watch remains comfortable on the wrist.
The salmon dial of the Ref. 5236P-010 is a standout feature. It boasts a minimalist yet striking design with white gold baton-style hour indices and matching hands. The opaline surface contrasts beautifully with the charcoal grey details, ensuring readability. The perpetual calendar display, with its stepped frame for day, date, and month, is easily decipherable. The four discs, including two for the date, hint at the intricate mechanism beneath.
Classic elements such as the detailed minute railroad track and the moon phase indicator, set against a dark blue backdrop, add to the dial’s aesthetic appeal. Although the moon phase indicator is small, its integration into the recessed seconds subdial at 6 o’clock, along with indicators for leap year and day/night, demonstrates thoughtful design.
Flipping the watch over reveals the intricate movement. The calibre 31-260 PS QL, with its 503 components, showcases Patek Philippe’s commitment to both technical excellence and aesthetic beauty. The movement is adorned with Geneva stripes, polished anglage, and a platinum mini-rotor for automatic winding, highlighting the brand’s meticulous craftsmanship.
While the movement is impressive, the dial remains the focal point of the Ref. 5236P-010. For those preferring to conceal the movement, Patek Philippe offers an interchangeable solid caseback, though changing it requires a visit to an authorized service representative.
Since its debut in 2021, the Ref. 5236P has established itself as a key model in Patek Philippe’s perpetual calendar lineup. The new salmon dial version, priced at CHF 120,000, exemplifies the brand’s dedication to innovative design and craftsmanship, further cementing its status in the world of high-end horology. The 5236P-010, adorned with its opaline rose-gilt dial, is a testament to Patek Philippe’s ability to blend tradition with contemporary elegance.
