For decades, women’s jewellery watches were primarily viewed as glamorous adornments rather than feats of mechanical prowess. However, the recent resurgence of the sautoir trend—sparked by new models from Chanel, Jaeger-LeCoultre, and Van Cleef & Arpels showcased at last year’s Watches and Wonders—has brought a nostalgic touch to these timepieces. Historically, watches were cleverly hidden within jewellery due to social norms that discouraged women from checking the time openly.
Today, both watchmakers and jewellers have redefined the concept of jewellery watches. The evolving definition now includes men’s jewellery watches, driven in part by the influence of hip-hop culture. Yet, this raises the question: does a watch need to be encrusted with gems to be considered a jewellery watch?
Cartier, a maison renowned for its fusion of haute horlogerie and haute joaillerie, remains a leading force in this field. For Watches and Wonders 2024, Cartier revisited its roots with the Baignoire in solid yellow gold, evoking the bold designs of the 1970s. They also introduced the Tigrée jewellery watch, featuring a distinctive zebra-stripe pattern. However, the pièce de résistance may well be the Reflection de Cartier. This innovative timepiece boasts an openwork metal bracelet, a subtly small watch dial at one end, and a mirrored surface at the other. Time is read off the reflection, creating an almost surreal, reversed effect.
Van Cleef & Arpels also brought its own flair to the table with the Lady Arpels Brise d’Été watch from their Poetic Complications collection. The 38mm timepiece features a painted garden scene with butterflies as hands and employs enamelling and miniature painting techniques. The watch’s movement animates the enamel flowers on the dial, highlighting the collection’s signature whimsicality and mechanical sophistication. Another example from this line is the Pont des Amoureux, which uses retrograde mechanisms to depict lovers meeting and parting under moonlight.
While the Reflection de Cartier and Van Cleef & Arpels pieces showcase innovation with or without precious stones, the addition of jewels remains a powerful way for jewellers to express their unique aesthetic. Chopard, for instance, has revitalized its Alpine Eagle Frozen Lake model by adorning it with a dazzling array of diamonds, transforming the timepiece into a high jewellery bracelet that sparkles from every angle.
Piaget, known for its high jewellery approach, has upgraded its Aura watch—a design first introduced in 1989. The new version integrates the dial into a gem-encrusted bracelet, maintaining an ultra-thin profile to preserve the sleek jewellery aesthetic.
Vacheron Constantin, one of the oldest watchmakers, has also made strides in this arena. Their Grand Lady Kalla, which can be worn as both a watch and a pendant, features a diamond pavé bracelet that can be detached and connected to a necklace of Akoya pearls and onyx beads.
As the boundaries between watches and jewellery continue to blur, one thing remains clear: expertly crafted timepieces seamlessly blend functionality and fashion, standing as both precise instruments and exquisite accessories.
