A recent visit to Cartier’s Manufacture in La Chaux-de-Fonds, nestled in the Neuchâtel canton of Switzerland, reveals a sprawling 33,000-square-meter facility. This manufacturing marvel, one of the largest fully integrated watch production sites in the country, stands as a testament to the harmonious blend of watchmaking tradition and cutting-edge innovation.
Entering the inner sanctum of Cartier’s Manufacture is an immersive experience, unveiling the intricate processes that birth a Cartier timepiece. The journey begins with the design and development phase, where sketches, mock-ups, and prototypes take form. This phase is followed by the technical “industrialization” stage, focusing on the manufacturing of each component, tool creation, and the assembly process. The culmination of this meticulous effort is the actual watch production, which is followed by rigorous inspections before the timepieces are dispatched to boutiques worldwide. This timeline, though simplified, underscores the painstaking dedication and commitment inherent in crafting each Cartier watch—a process where perfection is paramount.
Each new timepiece and its components, including the dial, case, bracelet, and sapphire crystal, undergo a stringent validation phase. This phase encompasses a series of mechanical and chemical tests conducted in controlled lab environments to ensure resistance to shocks, magnetism, water, and various climatic conditions. Up to 150 projects run concurrently at any given time, with the development of each new watch spanning one to two years, depending on its complexity.
During our visit, which coincided with the eve of the 2024 Watches and Wonders Geneva event, we had the privilege of previewing a prototype from the new Reflection de Cartier Collection. Following the lineage of Clash [Un]limited and Coussin watches, the Reflection de Cartier watch epitomizes Cartier’s fusion of magic, illusion, and fascination. The open bracelet’s generous architecture, combining openwork and polished reflective gold, culminates in a delicate dial that reflects the movement of time in a mesmerizing dance. The gem-like bevelled glass accentuates the piece’s dual sophistication and precision.
Inaugurated in 2001, the Cartier Manufacture in La Chaux-de-Fonds consolidates the various professions involved in watch production—from design to administrative support—with 850 skilled employees contributing to the creation of non-circular watches, traditional pieces, and high jewellery watch creations. The design office translates the designers’ visions into concrete plans, configuring them for industrial production while ensuring technical and aesthetic compliance. Using 3D printers, resin mock-ups are crafted for aesthetic validation before moving on to working prototypes. A technical report accompanies each watch throughout the manufacturing process, ensuring meticulous attention to detail.
The Industrial Processes department defines and continuously improves the industrial processes required for each model’s manufacturing. Pre-production checks these processes before launching full-scale production. Within the workshops, production melds tradition with modernity, utilizing both hand craftsmanship and advanced technology for tasks such as creating mineral crystals and watch hands. Notably, Cartier has been manufacturing its own watch hands since 2002, with 85% of them featuring the brand’s signature blue hue.
Unlike mineral crystal production, link production relies on state-of-the-art technology. Metal sections are transformed into links through a series of eight precise machining operations, managed by skilled operators. This process underscores Cartier’s commitment to excellence and reliability, ensuring the bracelets’ superior quality.
Quality checks are integral throughout the watch’s lifecycle, from validation during development to final inspections before boutique distribution. A visit to the LEED Platinum-certified Maison des Métiers d’Art, adjacent to the La Chaux-de-Fonds Manufacture, highlights Cartier’s dedication to preserving and innovating artisanal crafts. This unique site fosters the preservation, sharing, and modern adaptation of ancestral techniques, promoting continuous innovation.
The Maison des Métiers d’Art organizes crafts into three main families: the art of fire (enamelling and gold fragmentation), the art of metal (granulation, filigree, and flamed metal), and the art of composition (mosaics and marquetry). These crafts converge with the expertise of master watchmakers, jewellers, and gem-setters to create new practices and refine traditional ones.
Cartier’s Manufacture thrives on the symbiotic relationship between creativity and technique, blending ancestral savoir-faire with modern technology to meet the high standards of its discerning clientele. This alchemy is evident in the maison’s innovative creations, from the Coussin and Révélation watches to the Clash[Un]limited series, showcasing a perf
