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The Art of Subtlety: Nine Exemplary Quiet Luxury Timepieces

by Barbara Wilson

These timepieces exemplify a masterclass in restraint, elegance, and aesthetic balance, showcasing the pinnacle of watchmaking virtuosity without the need for ostentation.

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1.Rolex Perpetual 1908

The latest addition to the Rolex Perpetual 1908 line exemplifies dressy refinement. This 39mm platinum model features an exclusive ice-blue dial, highlighted by a guilloche rice-grain motif, a rosette at 6 o’clock, and intricate bezel fluting. Powered by the mechanical Calibre 7140 with a bidirectional self-winding function, it is a testament to Rolex’s craftsmanship.

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2.Chopard L.U.C XPS Forest Green

Celebrating the core values of technical performance, aesthetic refinement, and certification, this COSC chronometer blends vintage charm with contemporary horology. The 40mm case made of Lucent Steel, produced with at least 80% recycled material, houses a PVD-treated dark green sector-type dial and the proprietary L.U.C 96.12-L calibre.

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3.H. Moser & Cie Streamliner Perpetual Calendar Concept Smoked Salmon

This limited-edition timepiece features a smoked salmon-coloured dial with minimalistic design elements, including four central hands, a big date window, and a power reserve indicator. The 42.3mm watch, available for 12 months to mark this leap year, is powered by the HMC 812 calibre, visible through its sapphire caseback.

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4.Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Perpetual Calendar

The updated Master Ultra Thin Perpetual Calendar offers subtle modern enhancements and improved ergonomics. This 39mm steel model features a mesmerizing moonphase on a sunray-brushed silver dial. Its heart is the automatic Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 868, boasting a new escapement and a power reserve of 70 hours.

5.IWC Portugieser Chronograph

IWC’s Portugieser collection, dating back to 1939, saw the introduction of the chronograph in 1998. The new Dune color evokes peachy-golden dusk, enhancing the dial’s intricate craftsmanship. Housed in a stainless steel case, the in-house 69355 calibre movement ensures precision and reliability.

6.Patek Philippe Golden Ellipse

Launched in 1968, the Patek Philippe Golden Ellipse stands out with its unique aesthetic. This year’s Ref. 5738/1R-001 features an ebony-black sunburst dial and a rose gold bracelet with a patented construction. The Caliber 240 ultra-thin self-winding movement adds to its timeless refinement.

7.Cartier Prive Tortue Monopoussoir Chronograph

Revisiting Cartier’s 1928 monopusher chronograph, this 43.7mm by 34.8mm yellow gold model incorporates the new Manufacture 1928 MC calibre. Its slim profile at 4.3mm and the integration of start, stop, and reset functions into a single push-button within the crown exemplify Cartier’s balance of simplicity and elegance.

8.Vacheron Constantin Patrimony

Inspired by 1950s watches, the Vacheron Constantin Patrimony collection elevates high watchmaking minimalism. This new 42.5mm white gold model features a sunburst old-silver-toned dial and is powered by the in-house Calibre 2460 R31L, which includes a moonphase indication and a retrograde date display.

9.Hermes Cut

The Hermes Cut collection merges sharp-edged profiles with clean lines. The 36mm two-toned steel and rose gold watch features luminescent Arabic numerals on an opaline silver-toned dial. Enhanced by a diamond-set bezel, it remains design-focused and is powered by the Manufacture Hermès H1912 mechanical self-winding calibre movement.

These nine timepieces demonstrate that true luxury in watchmaking lies in subtlety, craftsmanship, and timeless design.

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