In a world inundated with extravagant claims of horological innovation and industry disruption, the Ulysse Nardin Freak X OPS emerges as a true rarity, breaking free from the monotony of marketing clichés. While the “Freak” label has proliferated within the Ulysse Nardin collection, only a select few can be deemed authentic “Freaks,” and the family has just welcomed a new member. The recently unveiled Freak X OPS, showcased at the Watches and Wonders Shanghai event, injects a burst of vibrant colors and a distinctly tactical flair into the collection.
The Freak X line, relatively speaking, isn’t a newcomer. Dubbed “the daily Freak” due to its inclusion of a crown and a considerably lower price point compared to its crownless counterparts, it proudly exhibits every iota of the Freak DNA through its hallmark “no-hands, no-dial” design elements. The one-hour orbital carousel tourbillon is mounted on an elongated bridge, ingeniously serving as the minute hand, while the hour indicator resides on a disc protruding from the heart of the movement. Although immediate legibility has never been the strong suit of this unconventional design, the matte and brushed metal bridges set against a multi-dimensional black backdrop aim to rectify that. Khaki green luminescence has been incorporated into the bridges and the black radially brushed baton framework of the movement, effectively serving as hour markers. Whether this unconventional approach becomes more reader-friendly with time and familiarity remains to be seen.
The 206-component movement remains consistent with the caliber UN-230 manufacture movement found in the rest of the Freak X lineup, beating at 21,600 vibrations per hour. Its escapement features lightweight silicon and nickel flyweights for enhanced rotation and regulation. The entire movement is proudly showcased through a titanium caseback with a sapphire exhibition window. Regrettably, no photos of the caseback were available at the time of this report.
The Freak X OPS marries the brand’s “Magma” carbon fiber composite, initially introduced in the Ulysse Nardin Skeleton X Magma, with the black DLC titanium case present in existing Freak X models. The distinctive black and green patterned sides harmonize with a lightweight titanium frame, reinforcing its “Operations” moniker. Ulysse Nardin has been no stranger to carbon fiber, employing it in various colors and configurations, sometimes even blending it with precious metals. The “Magma” composite comprises black carbon fiber and green epoxy resin. In the case of the 2019 Freak X Magma, this material appeared chaotic and inexpensive in images. However, the latest Freak X Ops features a refined swirling black pattern, resulting in a more natural topographical design. Combined with the subdued OD green resin, this design seamlessly aligns with the “Ops” nomenclature. Nevertheless, it’s crucial to note that despite its tactical appearance, the Freak X Ops is not a true tool watch; it’s unlikely to encounter anything more strenuous than a few rounds of Call of Duty.
The Freak X Ops boasts a 43mm wide case with a water resistance rating of 50 meters. While an upgrade to a minimum of 100 meters for the “everyday Freak” would have been appreciated, this is a substantial improvement compared to the often-seen 30-meter rating. Measuring 13.38mm in thickness to the apex of the domed sapphire crystal, the brand claims that the perceived thickness shrinks to 10.7mm due to the gracefully downturned lugs, or what we affectionately term “lug hugs.” However, this perception may vary depending on wrist shape and size. The watch is offered with a choice of either a black recycled fishing net strap or a matching khaki green fabric strap equipped with a convenient hook-and-loop (velcro) closure.
The Freak occupies a unique space within the watch industry, representing the pinnacle of innovation and non-conventional horology, unburdened by the repetitive designs that plague many other segments of watchmaking. Although the Freak design has graced the horological scene for over two decades, it continues to exude a sense of novelty with each reinterpretation, ensuring you’ll seldom encounter its like at your local watch gathering.
In response to the demand for a Freak with a crown, the Freak X Ops emerges four years after its initial introduction, signaling the collection’s gradual expansion, albeit at a higher price point. The Freak X Ops comes with a price tag of $33,800 USD, a notable increase over the standard carbon fiber and titanium options, yet still considerably more accessible than its predecessors in metal. For more details on Ulysse Nardin and the complete Freak X lineup, visit the brand’s official website.
