This fall, collectors of fine timepieces are in for a treat, as a variety of rare, uniquely-shaped watches will be up for auction. The upcoming sales, which include prominent auction houses such as Sotheby’s, Phillips, and Christie’s, will feature coveted pieces from some of the world’s most prestigious watchmakers, including Rolex, Cartier, Patek Philippe, Piaget, and Audemars Piguet. These timepieces, which defy traditional watch designs, are gaining attention for their distinctive cases and are expected to fetch high prices.
While the focus in recent years has been on vintage watches from the 1960s and ’70s, shaped watches from the same period are now making a comeback. These timepieces, often seen as design-forward, emphasize bold shapes and creative use of materials over mechanical complexity. According to James Lamdin, a watch expert from Analog
, these watches prioritize form over function, making them stand out in an era when companies were experimenting with non-traditional designs, often incorporating unconventional materials and exaggerated forms.
Shaped watches, with their tonneau, cushion, or “TV-style” cases, as well as ovals, squares, and other unique shapes, are finding new appeal among collectors. Many of these rare pieces have remained niche, but their increasing popularity suggests they are more than just fleeting trends. Notable collections, such as that of dealer Gai Gohari, highlight the growing demand for shaped watches, particularly those from the 1960s and ’70s, many of which were produced in limited quantities.
Among the standout pieces to be auctioned are several iconic models, each exemplifying the beauty of unusual shapes without overwhelming the design with excessive ornamentation. These watches demonstrate a delicate balance of eccentricity and classic appeal, with their shapes creating a striking visual identity without complicating the timekeeping function.
Here are 10 exceptional shaped watches to look out for in the upcoming fall auctions:
Daniel Roth Reference 2147
This 1992 chronograph features a platinum ellipsocurvex case and a guilloché dial with clous de Paris decoration. It houses the renowned Lemania 2320 movement, a hallmark of Roth’s craftsmanship. Estimated value: $29,200–$58,400 (Phillips, Geneva, November 8).
Audemars Piguet Reference 25643
A platinum, ultra-thin tourbillon watch from 1990, with a uniquely oblong case and a sunray dial emanating from the tourbillon. Its minimalist hour markers add to its charm. Estimated value: $23,300–$46,000 (Phillips, Geneva, November 8).
Cartier Crash Tigrée
A limited edition piece from 1922, featuring alternating diamonds and champlevé enamel in gradient blues and greens, evoking tiger stripes. Estimated value: $116,000–$233,000 (Phillips, Geneva, November 9–10).
Patek Philippe Golden Ellipse Reference 3730
A stunning example of Patek Philippe’s Golden Ellipse from the 1970s, relaunching the series earlier this year. This model is prized for its onyx dial, thought to be one of only seven produced. Estimated value: $17,400–$34,900 (Phillips, Geneva, November 9–10).
Piaget Black Tie Andy Warhol
A 1970s design known for its connection to the famous artist, featuring a stepped cushion case and a vibrant green malachite dial. Estimated value: $23,300–$46,500 (Phillips, Geneva, November 9–10).
Cartier Oblong and Concave
A one-of-a-kind design from 1972, showcasing Cartier’s experimental approach to asymmetry and off-round shapes. Estimated value: $23,300–$46,500 (Phillips, Geneva, November 9–10).
Vacheron Constantin Chronomètre Royal
This 1975 piece combines a rectangular case with baguette diamond hour markers, offering a rare example of stainless steel in luxury watchmaking. Estimated value: $17,400–$34,900 (Phillips, Geneva, November 9–10).
Rolex King Midas
A standout creation by Gerald Genta from 1964, featuring an asymmetrical case shape and crown on the left side. Its unique design has made it a sought-after piece among collectors. Estimated value: CHF 10,000–20,000 (Christie’s, Geneva, November 11).
Vacheron Constantin Haute Joaillerie
A stunning 1977 design featuring 240 baguette diamonds on its case and bracelet, embodying the era’s flair for geometric designs in women’s watches. Estimated value: CHF 30,000–50,000 (Christie’s, Geneva, November 11).
Patek Philippe Rhomboid 3
This rare 1962 model, crafted in yellow gold, features an asymmetrical tonneau shape and minimalist dial design. Only around 90 pieces were made. Estimated value: CHF 80,000–160,000 (Christie’s, Geneva, November 11).
Additional noteworthy pieces include rare designs from Piaget, Cartier, Audemars Piguet, and other revered brands, each offering collectors a chance to own a piece of horological history. The auction houses are brimming with a range of watches, from the most minimalist to the most extravagant, providing a diverse selection for buyers looking to add to their collections.
As interest in shaped watches grows, it is clear that these designs are no longer seen as novelties but as highly valued collectors’ items. The auctions in the coming weeks will undoubtedly highlight this ongoing trend, as these distinctive timepieces continue to capture the imaginations of watch enthusiasts worldwide.
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