In the realm of haute horlogerie, Cartier’s name resonates with unparalleled prestige. Marie-Laure Cérède, Cartier’s creative director for jewellery and watches, stands at the forefront of the French luxury maison’s watch and jewellery departments. Her visionary approach is not only redefining Cartier’s offerings but also influencing the broader landscape of luxury timepieces.
At the Watches and Wonders 2024 fair in Geneva, Switzerland, this April, Cérède shared her insights into Cartier’s latest innovations, design philosophy, and future ambitions in watchmaking. Her comments reveal a dedication to blending traditional craftsmanship with modern aesthetics, positioning Cartier as a leader in the evolving world of luxury watches.
Cérède highlights Cartier’s unique position within the luxury watch industry, citing the brand’s dual expertise in both watchmaking and jewellery. “We possess a distinctive advantage in the watchmaking sector,” she asserts. “Our goal is to harness this by merging our knowledge of jewellery with watchmaking. While functionality remains crucial, integrating jewellery techniques and artistry into our timepieces is key.”
The fusion of these two disciplines is evident in Cartier’s new creations showcased at the fair, such as the Reflection de Cartier watch. This piece, designed as a cuff bangle, features a watch dial at one end and a reflective gold surface at the other. The reflective surface playfully displays the time in reverse, embodying Cérède’s approach to combining functionality with artistic expression.
Cérède’s innovative mindset is particularly focused on modernizing women’s watches. “Today, watches often seem irrelevant for women, given our reliance on smartphones,” she notes. “Our challenge is to reinvent the concept of time.” To achieve this, she emphasizes both wearability and distinctive design, aiming to create timepieces that are both functional and statement-making.
Cartier’s emphasis on volume and ergonomics is evident in their creations, with Cérède and her team meticulously refining each piece to ensure it combines comfort with visual impact. “We consider ourselves sculptors of shapes,” she says, underscoring the importance of perfecting the shape and feel of each watch.
Among the highlights of Cartier’s 2024 collection are the Tortue models from the Privé collection. These pieces revisit iconic designs from the past, including the 1912 Tortue watch, reinterpreted with modern enhancements. Cérède’s team drew inspiration from original 1929 designs, striving to preserve their essence while incorporating contemporary industrial techniques. The result is a collection that balances historical charm with modern sophistication.
The new Tortue models feature rounded edges and a new, thinner manual winding movement, the 1928 MC, designed specifically for these timepieces. This movement, at just 4.3 mm thick, represents Cartier’s thinnest chronograph, embodying both heritage and modern standards of comfort and functionality.
Looking forward, Cérède is committed to continuous innovation while honoring Cartier’s legacy. “Innovation is crucial for our continued success,” she states. “We must explore new avenues and avoid relying on the same formulas. We are constantly seeking new processes and concepts, and we hope to surprise you with our future creations.”
Cérède’s vision for Cartier is clear: to craft timepieces that are not only visually stunning but also resonate with contemporary life. By blending heritage with innovation and combining watchmaking prowess with jewellery artistry, Cartier is setting a new standard in luxury, catering to a sophisticated and diverse audience.
